Thursday, August 5, 2010

Walls: A Photo Comparision

When I visit a new place, I always get this sense of estrangement, then the eventual feeling of belonging. It is important for me to have this process beacause it allows me to better understand the culture of a place. For me, this is the first time that I feel immersed, the first moment that I forget about home and sink myself into the essence of the foreign environment. In most cases, this feeling takes me by surprise. I feel all of a sudden small – like how a gear would feel inside of a watch.

Rome: A building located in the Jewish ghetto.

Interestingly enough, the first time that I felt this way in Rome wasn’t in a stereotypical Romanesque space such as the Forum or Campo de Fiori on a crowded Friday night. It was during our tour of the Jewish ghetto. I had fallen behind the group a bit and as I was catching up, I saw the most fascinating building. The building itself was haggard, with more paint peeling off than normal, but the most interesting part was that the walls were literally built up from Roman ruins. Ancient marble archways were reused as balconies. The shot which I believe characterizes Rome is simply of the wall of that building.

Istanbul: Busy storefronts

In Istanbul, I first felt “immersed” while on the tour bus. During our first day there, we were driving through an extremely squalor portion of town, and then all of a sudden we were upon modern high rises and tall apartment buildings. This hastily shot photo of a wall was taken through the window of the bus. The side of the building is decked with advertisements and stores. The sheer amount of stores is staggering, on the left, it seems that there are three stores, all stacked on top of each other.

The two shots symbolize the contrast between the two great cities. I think the key difference between Rome and Istanbul is the ideal of each city. To me, both cities can be distilled to a singular idea, a foundation which builds the character of each city. In our case, one city is pleased with its position in the world, while the other is in constant motion, trying to change.

Rome, like much of Italy, is trying to preserve its heritage. For thousands of years, the city of Rome has been an influential part of the world. It has been everything from the capitol of the greatest empire in the world to the capitol of the most powerful religion in the world. Italians (especially those that call the eternal city home) are very proud of this linkage to antiquity. Much of Italian life is surrounding this idea of keeping the status quo – that Italy is absolutely fine the way that it is. This to me is the reason why Italians are stubborn and resistant to change. The photo is symbolic of this idea. Rome sees nothing wrong with showing ancient ruins on the façade of its buildings. In fact, I believe the Romans are proud of peeling paint on its buildings, in great contrast to the Turks.

Before discussing this contrast, it’s fascinating to note how modern the city of Istanbul is. We spent a lot of time touring the old city, a place that was ancient and as old as Rome. In spite of this however, history is much less in the foreground in Istanbul. From the beginning of the 19th century, Istanbul has undergone a progressive change in an attempt to modernize itself, pushing its history (and its religion) to the background. As we learned in class, the historic city of Istanbul has been absolutely dwarfed by the modern city that now surrounds it. Even now, Turkey is trying hard to be accepted into the European Union, to the point of making its own currency look like Euros.

Unlike Rome, Istanbul is constantly changing because it doesn't know its own identity quite yet, and the photo that I chose is representative of this. Notice the variety of shops that are present: a makeup shop is located above a photo store, to the right of which is what seems to be a (Greek) plumbing shop. The organization is almost chaotic. How much more likely to change this is than the building in Rome? I would not be surprised if for instance the Kodak shop will close within the next five years, but I can’t imagine the building in Rome changing at all. The marble archways and the fading rust color will still proudly stand, even in a hundred years.

Higher quality version of the photos: Rome and Istanbul.

Tuesday, July 27, 2010

Cinque Terre and home?

Boring!

It wasn't like the place that Rick Steves showed me on the television.

The views were incredible, but it was so extremely boring! There's just not that much to do.

We did complete the 6 km hike between the 5 cities of the Cinque Terre.

We did spend the night with complete strangers. It was my first personal hostel experience, and the two girls were actually super duper nice.

I'm in Rome now, after an unspeakably terrible "night train". You get what you pay for I suppose. I don't think I'll ever forget the horror that was the 1:27 AM train from La Spezia to Napoli.

I'm cooped up in the Rome center classroom on the third floor. It feels oddly like home here.

I've been gone for 6 weeks. Look out Seattle I'll be with you tomorrow.

Sunday, July 25, 2010

Venice

Two nights in Milan, then a one way train to Venice.

If I could describe Venice in one word, it would be, tourixpensive.

Tourixpensive, if I had my way, would be a the word that describes how Venice is a combination of tourism and expensive things. That is as obvious as it sounds - the population of tourists in Venice sometimes double that of its native population!

Either way, the city was incredibly gorgeous. I thought it was actually quite repetitive. Every turn became a canal with a view of colorful buildings, and the canals really stank. Not my favorite thing so far.

Seeing the horses of St. Mark was as amazing as that sounds. I think at this point I have seen all the reproductions of them: the reproductions on the Capitoline hill, the copies

The coffee at Cafe Florian though was pretty good! Considering they were charging a 4 euro fee for counter service, it had better be a good cappuccino.

Our stay at Camp Jolly was really jolly.

All day we were dreading the stay since we booked a dirt cheap 13-room dormitory for 10 euro a night, but it was a total surprise! Not only did it have an awesome swimming pool, arcade, bar (super cheap), and market (with super cheap alcohol - see the pattern?), but they bumped us up (for free!) to a private bungalow with AC and a private bathroom. It was pretty much the least sweaty night of this entire trip! They also had laundry machines, which was a godsend.

Sunday, we basically traveled on trains all day. I made an impulsive decision to buy
Angels and Demons for more than I should have at the Venice Santa Lucia train station, and that was basically 6 hours of my life. What a fantastic book.

Now we are in Cinque Terre.

Saturday, July 24, 2010

Milan

So we went to Milan from Istanbul, connecting from a 6 hour layover in Greece.

Milan is really a fashion capitol. Everyone is gorgeous. No joke. Literally everyone walking down the fashion district could have passed as a supermodel. So that's where Italy was hiding all its pretty women..

Milan can be thought of as Rome but incredibly urbanized. That being said, I think Milan is really far different from Rome. It was for one, much cleaner than Rome, and two, much younger than the population of Rome. Milan from what I saw was mostly compsed of younger people as opposed to the older people that we saw in Rome. Since most of the city was new and urbanized, it also gave off a sense of vitality.

The hostel that we stayed (manically booked at a vodafone promotional stand which offered internet while panicking in Athens International) at in Milan was definitely run by super Chinese people. The kind that barely spoke English (or Italian for that matter). We got super upgraded to a room with private toilette and shower. Also, we got free wifi the entire time, enabling the planning of the rest of the trip, which had not been done.

Oh the joys of being bilingual.

Also, finding a Punto Sma was almost like finding an oasis in the desert. Yes, I am not ashamed to say that I made sandwiches from super cheap (but still good of course) deli meat there two nights in a row. I'm not made of money.

In terms of sightseeing, we saw a lot of art there. Notably, the Museo La Scala was amazing. I love operas, so La Scala was a perfect to visit. Not only did I get a really good history of the place and saw cool things like a cast of Toscanini's hand, I got to see in person the stagehands working on the a set. It was super cool.

The Pinocateca Brera was also really interesting. The museum itself was the entire second floor; all of it was beautifully painted and decorate. The first floor, however, was dirty, unkempt, and filled with odd things like a model of the talking statue? Whatever it was, it was super weird.

The duomo climb was nice, but nothing compared to the one in Florence, and as it turns out, the one in Venice.

One things I'd like to add is that Olympic Air is the best airline that I've ever flown. In a 1.5 hour flight, I was served the best airplane meal that I had ever had, a coke, and two waters. And don't get me started on the hot flight attendants, and yes - all of them were gorgeous.

Friday, July 23, 2010

Excuses

I promise, I have an excuse for not blogging during the entire Istanbul-5-days-of-madness.

It was insane! This isn't a joke. One day I believe we were out for 15 hours, from 8:30 AM to 11:30 PM. Let me tell you, seeing a city of 17 million people and almost 3000 years of history in 5 days is not an easy task. I can't believe that we saw as much as we did to be honest.

Here's a short list of what we saw. I won't waste your time by writing down every single detail. Doing so would 1, require much more time than I currently have to give and 2, would take so long that no one would bother to finish this blog post. Consider this an extended Details sections.

1. Turkish toilettes cannot flush paper. Yes. That does mean that all bathrooms contain a repository which you store your oh so dirty papers.
2. Tap water is not drinkable in Turkey. That was basically a huge inconvenience.
3. Turkish cuisine has to be one of the most underrated in the world. I promise it goes much further than Aladdin's.
4. Turkish men are would-be-semi-rapists. No joke.
5. Liquor is super ultra expensive (in great contrast to Italy). Think 3 TL for a beer. 60 for a fifth of Smirnoff, etc.
6. Air conditioned tour buses are now my official favorite safe haven.
7. Bogozici Univerisitizi is full of cats and kittens. Literally.
8. Turkey is full of cats (sometimes kittens).
9. Turkey is also full of dogs.
10. Turkish men will touch you.
11. All shopkeepers were, let's say, extremely proactive in getting a sale.
12. Mosques are incredibly awe-inspiring. Also, the speed at which they were constructed is also amazing. Imagine, Sinan built more than 80 mosques in his lifetime. Michaelangelo barely finished one ceiling.
13. Resat Kasaba is basically a huge baller and owns more than half of Istanbul. We ate 5 course meals everyday and went to really cool exclusive spots.
14. It's heartbreaking to say goodbye. I really hate doing it.

That's basically my recollection of Istanbul. It went by in such a blur. I don't think I had ever accomplished so much in 5 days.

More about my little trip when I have more time.

Friday, July 16, 2010

+++

It's time to say goodbye to the eternal city. I'll be here again soon though, since I threw 3 coins into the Trevi fountain.

I still have to pack. Plane ride to Istanbul happens in about 2 hours.

Bye for now.

Wednesday, July 14, 2010

A long day

Here is a post to make up for my slacker posts the last few days (weeks. bleh).

It's 3:01 AM and I have my final presentation tomorrow. Super bleh.

I wake up at 8:30 AM today. Resat's lecture about Turkey was very good and extremely interesting. I feel like he could teach history as well as sociology. We talked about Istanbul, and it sounds incredibly fun and exciting. I might be able to do some shopping there? Liras are far better than Euros.

For lunch, Roman, Emilio and I went to try the Argentine place. Too bad it was closed. We went to the "gyrocery" which was a huge disappointment. I miss Aladdin's.

Roman and I went to look for bike frames, which failed. There's only new shitty bikes and custom shops. There are barely any used bikes around. Sad face. I had hoped to ship one back with the class shipment...

The Joel Nafuma volunteers went today. The class was good, but to be honest a lot of it was corny and very fluff. I feel almost as Sociology is not the science of explaining human behavior, but discovering what one (the sociologist) feels is a plausible explanation through personal experiences, if that makes any sense. If that is the truth, then the science boils down to what philosophy is - purely argument at something that cannot be proven.

Sociology is more for me like self-enlightenment rather than anything else. Like philosophy, it cannot be excised from our lives. It is key in letting humans recognize themselves as humans.

There were however, very moving portions of the presentations. I really rather enjoyed Kathie's class this summer.

From the afternoon onwards, I hid in the air-conditioned rooms in the Rome center and worked on my presentation.

I made risotto and Christine ruined my presentation of the sweet couscous. No matter. We got it done. I walked her home all by myself when all her friends (BE GUILTY) were drinking upstairs in our apartment.

My risotto was pretty decent when it came out. But cold risotto really doesn't cut it. :( I hope I'll have a bit of time to re-emulsify some fat/liquid into it before I serve it. It's a shame really.

Emilio and I had a funny/interesting conversation about girls. I'll keep it at that.

Now I'm tired and it's time for bed. Turkey in two days. Seattle in 23.